REVIEW: Jane Austen in Bath: Walking Tours of the Writer's City by Katharine Reeve
We are very fond of Bath; we call it “The Happiest Place on Earth” (except after 6 p.m. when one cannot get a bloody cup of tea). It’s so beautifully preserved (and rebuilt where necessary) that one is constantly seeing reminders of Jane Austen’s life or novels. Perhaps this is ironic, as it is an accepted truth that Jane was not fond of Bath, or at least did not like living there, but the city nonetheless is a treat for any Janeite. Jane Austen in Bath: Walking Tours of the Writer’s City is a beautifully-presented little book that is an excellent companion for travelers, including those of the armchair variety.
Ms. Reeve is a Bath resident, and the book shows her familiarity with and pleasure in the city. The walks are quite short, and one could take two or three in a single day, though visitors with more time can ramble, visit shops, and read the information in the book about Jane Austen’s life and works related to that area of Bath as well as history of the city. The walks hit all the main tourist spots, and anyone who follows them will be as familiar as Jane herself was with the geography of this compact little city.
Period illustrations and maps give a real feel for the city, and travelers will enjoy seeing how little (or how much) Bath has changed since the 18th century.
Jane Austen in Bath is a beautiful little book, an excellent gift for any Janeite or even for oneself.
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The BBC reported this morning that Bath has, on average, the most expensive hotels in Europe! It’s cheaper to stay in Paris than in Bath.
Also relevant here, I think, is the British government’s proposal to create development “buffer zones” around World Heritage Sites, like Bath. A developer wants to build a high rise in the middle of Bath; the government’s “buffer zone” proposal would block that development. The “buffer zone” idea comes in response to UNESCO criticism that Britain is not doing enough to protect its historic sites.
Bath is absolutely wonderful, and the view from Beechen Cliff is still marvelous (except for the parking garage in the foreground). But the only place, other than in her books, that I’ve actually felt the presence of Jane Austen, was in her house in Chawton.
The government’s “White Paper” outlining the heritage protection plan can be accessed as a PDF: http://www.culture.gov.uk (in the orange box)
Sample news coverage in the Independent, citing Bath as an endangered site: http://news.independent.co.uk/uk/this_britain/article2341348.ece
We stayed at the Y. £20 a night for a twin room! (And we had a triple because they didn’t have any doubles.)
That being said, there’s lots of B&Bs and things for all budgets. I suggest Rick Steves for starting your research.
Ah, yes, the Bath Y is the only accommodation I have used there! The little book of walking tours sounds delightful and helpful. On my last visit, it took some work to find a local who could show us the way up Beechen Cliff (yes, we chickened out and took a bus up, although walked down. The view is magnificent).
My next place to visit when I have time is Lyme Regis for Louisa imitations on the Cob.
I hate to sound stupid but how much is that in American dollars? I am so envious of all of you that are within reasonable traveling distance from all of these wonderful places. But alas, I am a poor Yank who once again has to experience JA vicariously through others. I guess I better start socking more money away for my “dream trip” to England.
P.S. Any donations gladly accepted
Today, £20 is about $39. You can find out about the Bath Youth Hostel here: http://www.yha.org.uk/ Search for “Bath.”
That’s about $39 Suzanne. Here a ‘Universal Currency Converter’ site I’ve always found very handy: http://www.xe.com/ucc/. It calculates prices from any currency you want into another. Bath is also very high on my wish list!
Suzanne, once again I recommend Rick Steves’ books and website (ricksteves.com). He has lots of great tips for the budget traveler. I’m a Yank, too.
You can find out about the Bath Youth Hostel here: http://www.yha.org.uk/ Search for Bath.
Just to be clear, I believe that Mags & Kathleen are talking about the Bath YMCA, which is in town and costs maybe 20 pounds. Robert, you refer to the Bath YHA hostel (i.e. Hostelling International.) This is halfway up Bathwick Hill, a bit further from the centre of Bath. The YHA is cheaper; about 14 pounds this year. I worked at the YHA Hostel on Bathwick Hill in 1980-81. It is a beautiful Italianate villa, built in the 1840s (at that time it was infested with very large cockroaches, but maybe they’ve been eradicated by now.)
Yes, the YMCA is very central. We were a less than five minute walk from the Abbey. But Bath is pretty compact, there are no really long walks. You just have to watch out for the hills. Anything too far out, you’ll be walking up a very steep hill to get home after a long day sightseeing.
The YMCA has dormitory beds as well (like a hostel, lots of bunk beds in a big room, segregated by gender) which are cheaper than the private rooms. The private rooms are like college dorms. There is only a sink in the room, the toilets/showers are down the hall and shared. They have single, double, triple and family rooms, if memory serves. Continental breakfast (cereal, toast, tea/coffee/juice) is included in the price. This is all from October 2005 so I don’t know if prices or what’s included has changed. The advantage of the private room–other than privacy, of course!–is that you can leave your stuff in your room, lock it up and go off. If you’re in the dorm, you have to pack up your stuff and pay for a locker to lock up your bags during the day. The lockers are huge, a couple of people can share.
B&Bs are a little more money but more is usually included and they might be more convenient. Worth looking into. TripAdvisor.com has a very active Bath forum with local experts to direct you to nice places.
Robin, isn’t the YHA building the one supposedly haunted by Frank Austen?
Thanks for all of the info. I am hoping to be able to take my “grand adventure” within the next two years. I was thinking about taking a tour that sets up your itinerary for you but I haven’t found one that seems to fit what I want. I think I am scared that I will miss something or someplace really important. And ouch– the prices! I guess I have more research to do.
No – Frank Austen’s ghost is frequently to be seen at Wymering Manor in Portsmouth, which was once (but no longer is) a Youth Hostel. I once was staying at Wymering Manor (attending some kind of YHA team building meeting) and several of us strongly sensed a presence on the old staircase late at night. (Full disclosure: we’d spent most of the evening at the pub.)
Only twenty years later did I discover that Frank Austen is buried in the churchyard, just a stone’s-throw from Wymering Manor, and he lived nearby. He was a frequent visitor to the house, which was the home of his friend Mr. Nugee, rector of Wymering.
I believe there have been several paranormal investigations of Wymering Manor in recent years, with many sightings and other paranormal phenomena documented. I remember reading that there was at least one suicide in the house in the early eighteenth century.
Oh dear – I see we had a whole conversation about Wymering before, less than a year ago, and I’d completely forgotten. Talk about senior moments. Good thing you have the “Search Austenblog” in the sidebar.
Whether Harris Bigg-Wither also haunts Wymering, I doubt. He’s probably too prosaic a chap to hang around after death
That’s it–I knew you mentioned Frank Austen’s ghost and a hostel together at some point, but I got mixed up. Thanks for the clarification.